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Spring Treatment : ( Mid Feb - Mid April):

We will review the condition of your lawn and treat it as required . Typically we will apply our specially formulated Spring Feed which is a controlled release fertilizer to encourage your grass to green up and grow. It is also designed to lift the lawn out of winter and provide that deep green spring like colour. We will also treat your lawn for weeds and more likely at this time of year, moss, which is a recurring problem in most Irish lawns.

Early Summer Treatment : (April – Mid June)

Our early summer treatment will see us applying our special (non scorch) controlled release fertilizer to keep the health of your lawn in tip top condition. We will at this time make an important selective weed treatment that will rid your lawn of many of the weeds that have green colour and thick lawn that we all like. Typically you will see the dandelions and daisies as well as many of the other unwanted weeds start to die off in a few days.

Mid Summer Treatment : (July - August)

During this treatment we apply a very important application of our summer lawn fertiliser which contains our controlled slow release granules. We will control any weed that may persist. It does not need watering in and will help to maintain the green strength in the lawn, even through a hot dry period which is typical at this time of year. We will also target those more difficult to control troublesome weeds such as white clover, yarrow, lesser trefoil and woodrush to maintain the health of your lawn.

Autumn Treatment : (Sept – Nov)

Perhaps the most important fertiliser treatment of the year is applied during this visit.To prepare and strengthen your lawn for the winter months we will apply the final fertilizer application of the year to strengthen the grass and encourage better rooting. We will make a final spot treatment of weed killer. Again unique to Lawn Doctor and developed specifically and only for our customers, it is designed to maintain the colour and strength in the grass throughout the winter helping to prevent moss being a problem again in the spring time.
The fertiliser contains the correct balance of nutrients to ensure that the plant is healthy from the roots right up to the tip. We will again carry out a moss treatment at this time in an attempt to prevent any that lingers from developing and being a problem throughout the winter and into next spring

Now is the time to consider lawn renovation, please ask for details.

Moss is the name for a group of primitive non-flowering plants that quickly spread as a spongy mass on undisturbed soil. Moss thrives where there is dampness. Conditions of poor drainage, compacted soil, heavy soil and shade encourage moss. Cutting your grass at low heights and constant mulching of grass will also contribute to the build-up of moss. will apply a heavy duty moss control to eliminate all moss in badly contaminated areas. Once the product is applied it needs to be left to penetrate for 2-3 weeks before scarification can take place. In extreme cases a 2nd application may be needed depending on contamination levels.

(Moss will return to a lawn if a recommended Lawn care program is not followed).

Annual Moss Treatment Program

Spring Lawn Moss Treatment will apply a Ferrous Sulphate based moss-killer to the whole affected area. Two weeks later we will scarify the area by mechanical means and remove the dead moss. All the dead matter will be removed from the area to allow air and light. We will Re seed the bare areas.

Summer Lawn Moss Treatment

Early Summer, apply a lawn fertilizer to get the grass growing again. Advise on cutting your lawn properly, regularly, throughout the summer - NOT too short Keep the lawn well watered in drought conditions to allow the new grass to keep growing. Take note of any areas of dense shade on your lawn, and try to minimize this if possible.

Autumn Lawn Moss Treatment will rake or mechanical scarifying and aerate the lawn.
We will apply top dressing at this time if the lawn is either uneven, or in need of an organic 'injection'. Particularly useful on weak sandy soils. A soil test will be carried out at some stage in the summer/autumn to assess the acidity of the soil. If in need of adjustment, then lime can be applied in the autumn.

Winter Lawn Moss Treatment

If by the autumn, your lawn is growing well, then most if not all of the moss in your lawn will have been controlled or even eradicated. Further spot treatments may be needed, or maybe even a full treatment for most lawns again the following spring. We advise you to keep off lawns in the winter months in order to avoid compaction of the surface. We can provide a leaf blowing service if it is required at this time to remove any dead leaves.

Now is the time to consider lawn renovation, please ask for details.

A mechanical raking operation to remove dead or dying fibrous growth and lift litter and thatch/fibre lying at the base of the turf.

Over time your lawn can accumulate thatch, a layer of slowly decomposing grass, dead organic matter dead roots, and debris that's above the sod and below grass blades. The name thatch is appropriate, like a thatched roof, it stops water and fertiliser from reaching the soil and provides a place for insects to hide. Thatch is a problem only when it becomes too thick. A layer of thatch ¼ inch to ½ inch thick is beneficial to the lawn. It buffers soil temperatures and adds to the resilience of the lawn, thereby reducing the compaction of soil that can result from heavy use. When too thick, however, thatch is water repellent. Grass roots that grow in the thatch layer instead of in the soil are less drought resistant, since the moisture in the thatch evaporates faster than the moisture that penetrates the soil. Insects and diseases find thatch a particularly suitable place to inhabit. Since water does not penetrate it easily, neither do the products used to control pests and diseases. It can take up to two or three weeks to control soil insects like grubs under a lawn with thatch, as opposed to half that time in a thatch free lawn. Because the thickness and density of thatch varies, lawn mowers are more likely to cut unevenly, causing scalping.

Does my lawn need scarifying?
Examining your lawn is the best way to tell whether it needs scarifying. If you see more moss /thatch than blades of grass then it needs to be Scarified immediately. will check for this free of charge as part of your lawn survey.

How does remove thatch from my lawn?
The most effective way to remove thatch from a home lawn is with a powered rake. Resembling a heavy duty lawnmower, a scarifier has a series of revolving tines that pull through the thatch and bring it to the surface of the lawn The dead thatch will then need to be removed from the surface to allow air circulate and light to get to the grass plant.
A mechanical operation to remove plugs of soil. This is a valuable operation to remove poor quality material, including thatch/fibre.

Over time most soils will become compacted by the foot traffic, heavy mowing machinery and watering going on above the surface. This causes the air spaces to disappear which squashes the soil particles together and reduces the grasses ability to grow. This compaction will itself cause a number of problems, it will increase the likeli hood of the lawn becoming flooded or water logged. As a result this provides a breeding ground for moss and infested with weeds such as daisy´s. The roots are unable to access the nutrient they require so the grass tends to be thin, weak and yellow in compacted soils. If thatch is a problem in a lawn then the best way to reduce its impact on the turf growth is by Hollow tine aeration. This is a difficult job to do yourself as it requires heavy, expensive equipment. But it is a service that can be carried out, without all the strain by Lawndoctor,ie. Aeration is the secret weapon in establishing a healthy lawn. With clay soil being so abundant in Ireland, aeration is the best recommended practice to carry out annually to keep your grasses root zone working to the best of its ability.

Does my lawn need Aerations ?
If your lawn is wet most of the time or is hard with little or no growth during warm spells with the presence of many worn areas then this will signal the need to aerate your lawn. Intensively maintained lawns should be aerated about once a year. Lawns with severe thatch problems or heavily compacted soils may require two aerations a year. will check for this free of charge as part of your lawn survey

How does carry out Aeration on my lawn?
Aeration is a process of pulling cores of soil and grass from your lawn and depositing them on the surface. This is done with a machine that pushes hollow cylinders into the ground forcing out the soil cores. Generally 8-10 cores are pulled from each square foot of turf, with an average sized lawn producing over 8,000 cores. Hollow-Tine Aeration requires specialist professional equipment. Cores are usually left to break down to act as a dressing.
Poor drainage in the garden can have many causes.

If you have a high seasonal water table you will find that the water sits on or close to the surface during periods of high rainfall. If your soil structure is heavy or clay based, this too can reduce soil permeability and cause poor drainage. Low points in the garden, can allow water to collect and drain poorly. Walking on your poorly drained lawn when it's wet can further add to the problem because the wet soil compacts and loses its structure. If the problem exists in only a small low point, it might be worthwhile considering turning a problem into a design feature by digging out a border and filling it with plants that love their feet to be wet. But if you want a lawn you can actually walk on after the rain without it turning into a mud bath, then you should install an underground drainage system of land drains. use land drain trenches consisting of single walled corrugated PVC-U pipe supplied perforated for the collection and removal of surface and sub-surface water and gravel; they work by encouraging the water to enter the trench because the gravel provides less resistance than the surrounding soil. (Water will always travel to the area of least resistance if encouraged to do so). The trenches then carry the water away from the problem zone. Another option use is to build a soak away in your garden. We dig a hole - 1m x 1m by 80cm deep in an area of the garden that is unused and falls away from your house. The drain trenches are directed into the hole and fill it full of gravel. The soak away serves to hold the water underground until it can drain away slowly. Soak aways are fine for a small amount of water but they won't cope with large volumes so, if you are coping with water run-off from adjoining land, the chances are that, during periods of heavy rainfall, the soak away will fill up too fast and the water will back-up along the trench. If you don't have a place to put a soak away, or if the garden slopes towards the house, will redirect the water into the rainwater drain. This involves following the rain gutter pipe from your house until we can find a suitable place to join into it. Once we have set up a place to which to divert the excess water, we will need to decide on the layout of your system. The most popular layout is a herringbone pattern with one or two vertical drains which have diagonal drains running into them. recommend that lawn drains are never redirected into a river or stream as nutrients from your garden may upset the ecosystem and you definitely cannot drain into your neighbour's property thus transferring the problem onto them.

Does my lawn need Drainage installed?
If you lawn has standing water or if it is wet all year round then YES you need lawn drainage. If there are large areas of moss on your lawn then this is the first sign that the soil is saturated. will check how compacted you lawn is as part of your lawn survey and advise you on the Correct solution to your drainage problem.
Top dressing your lawn can be beneficial in many ways.

It is used to help with surface drainage by way of encouraging a new soil profile. recommends bulky materials (soil, sand, loam, or varying mixtures) for this treatment and they can be applied all year round . The aims are varied, from developing a smoother lawn surface, an aid in controlling water holding characteristics, or reducing thatch by providing better environments for beneficial microbes. This treatment will also help with surface drainage on your lawn as it will allow water through the soil quicker. Regular dressing will create an even surface on your lawn. It is also extremely important to top dress after aeration to fill in the aeration holes. will advise you free of charge as part of your lawn survey. overseeding restores thinned and damaged areas of turf.

Also used to introduce better quality grasses throughout your lawn and improves the overall colour. Overseeding of an existing lawn is a recognized essential part of annual lawn maintenance. All lawns are affected by the specific growing environment in which they exist, their level of use and general weather conditions. As a result, understanding the basic principles of overseeding and choice of seed mix will enable you to work with nature toward a greener and healthier lawn and reduce weed and moss invasion. After five or six years, grass plants will slow down their reproduction rates; they get tired, just like we do as we age, even if it's fertilized regularly. Over seeding is one of the most important lawn care tasks, yet few homeowners in Ireland ever do it. will advise you free of charge as part of your lawn survey.

Now is the time to consider lawn renovation, please ask for details.

Fungal Disease Control

Red Thread can be seen throughout the summer months during periods of high humidity. The occurrence of this disease is most evident after periods of wet weather, especially towards the end of summer, when humidity is high. The lawn will begin to show small patches of grey-brown turf initially; on closer inspection the grass plant will have small, red ‘needles’ protruding from the diseased leaf. Although high humidity is the main cause of Red Thread, it can also be seen in lawns that are suffering from plant stress. This is usually caused by a poor cutting, thatch build up, compaction, poor irrigation and lack of feeding.

Fairy Rings can be found in turf everywhere. This lawn disease can be seen as complete circles, ribbons or arcs of stimulated grass growth, which may or may not be associated with bare areas of turf and toadstools. There is not always a specific reason as to the cause of a fairy ring, although very often it is caused by rotting wood or root in the soil. As the wood rots down it develops mycelial spores that work their way up to the turf surface. Fairy rings are very difficult to treat, but if you have this problem, we will be happy to advise and recommend a course of treatments.

Fusarium Patch This is another very common lawn disease, seen mostly during the autumn and winter months. It is a cool weather disease and thrives in persistent drizzle and foggy/misty conditions. Symptoms appear as small, circular, yellow patches which spread up to about 30cm in diameter. Once established, the patches turn a yellow/brown colour and in severe cases can kill the grass. After the disease becomes inactive, the area appears pale and straw-like. Havinge a high thatch layer and poor drainage, as well as enclosed shaded lawns with little air movement, are the most at risk to Fusarium. can treat for Fungal diseases all year round.

Pest Control

Leather Jackets (aka Daddy long legs) can be damaging lawn pests and also sometimes kill small plants in flower beds and vegetable plots by eating the roots and stem bases. They are often more numerous after a wet autumn, as damp conditions favour survival of the eggs and young larvae. They will often be seen flying around the gardens in late September time. The flies lay their eggs in grassed areas – usually lawns. Then over the winter and spring period, the eggs hatch and the resultant larvae, called leatherjackets, feed off the roots and young shoots of the lawn. This can have a devastating effect on a lawn. Leatherjackets are legless, brown/grey in colour and can grow up to 4cm long. Normally, a prolonged frosty winter will control the number of these lawn pests, but mild winters have will cause their number to increase dramatically. Things to look out for are birds picking vigorously at the lawn; discoloration of the grass and the lawn thinning out.

Chafer Grubs are soil-dwelling larvae of chafer beetles. A combination of chafer grubs and the larger animals that feed on them can quickly turn a neat lawn into something that resembles a ploughed field. Chafer grubs eat the roots of grasses and other plants. Evidence of their activities can be seen in a number of ways. Damage to lawns is most obvious between autumn and spring when the grubs are reaching maturity. Birds, particularly of the crow family (e.g. jays, magpies, rooks and crows), and badgers and foxes feed on the grubs, tearing up the loosened turf in the process. Chafer grubs can be found in the soil under the loose turf. They have stout white bodies curved in a C shape, light brown heads, with three pairs of legs at the head end. They are bigger than the adult beetles and, if straightened out, would be up to 18mm (almost 3/4in) long There is vast array of other pests that you may come across, can advise and treat for pests all year round.

Now is the time to consider lawn renovation, please ask for details.

Weed Control

Lawns are obviously less attractive with unsightly patches of weed and flowers, and can be difficult to walk on barefoot if species are present with prickles or which attract bees. Weeds can even create uneven surfaces in your lawn and lawn disease can turn a good lawn bad very quickly. There are several weed species that thrive on lawns in Ireland because of our climate, many look very similar to each other, yet vary considerably in their susceptibility to chemical control. Clearly the correct identification is vital before any treatment is applied. turf managers are trained to inspect, treat, and control lawn problems as they appear and once we get on top of things, our regular treatments will keep your lawn healthy & competitive and prevent lawn problems from coming back. use a selective herbicide product to kill the weeds. In the first year 80-90% of weeds should be expected to be killed depending on the level of contamination in the lawn. From year 2 onwards the kill will be guaranteed at 100% . This works because Herbicide breaks down cell walls to ensure the weed is killed. To guaranteed your weeds don't return it is recommended that a weed control treatment is carried out every year.

Weed Identification weed control treatment will eliminate and control their spread and growth in your lawn. Here are the most common weeds seen in Irish lawn and the pictures will help you identify them.

Creeping Buttercup Flowers fairly early on in the year, around April and can be seen right through to early September. It has vigorous rooting runners that help it to spread across lawns, much to the dissatisfaction of lawn lovers. Seen mostly in damp lawns and clay soils.
Lesser celandine is a low-growing, hairless perennial plant, with fleshy dark green, heart-shaped leaves Flowers between February and May with a single yellow flower which only opens in bright sunshine
Common Mouse-ear Hickweed forms a dense, prostrate patch in lawns and gardens. It is a perennial weed that has small leaves which can grow up to 40cm long. It is found in lawns and commonly found in planting beds and under trees and shrubs It has white flowers, which flower from February to November
White Clover(aka Dutch clover) Has broken many lawn lovers hearts. It is low growing, with heads of whitish flowers, often with a tinge of pink or cream that may come on with the aging of the plant. White clover can tolerate close mowing, and can grow on many different types and pHs of soil, but prefers clay soils. Flowers between May and October.
Common Daisy This familiar little plant has a basal rosette of bright green leaves and stems with pretty white and yellow flower heads that are full of seeds. The most common, and popular of lawn weeds. The flowers appear all through the year, peaking towards the late spring.
Dandelion is a hardy perennial that can grow to a height of nearly 12 inches. It is an easily recognised lawn weed with a single, solitary yellow flower, which sits on a fairly weak, hollow stalk. Flowers from March to October.
Broad leaf Plantain, is a native perennial weed of disturbed habitats, roadsides, and lawns. There are various species of plantain. Very common on bare ground but equally at home on lawns. This broad leaf weed grows close to the ground and is tolerant to trampling and mowing. They will be seen in lawns flowering from May to September.
Slender Speedwell , This weed is very common in amenity grassland and lawn turf. They will have creeping stems and small lilac flowers, with a white centre. They will be seen in lawns flowering from April to June.
Lesser Trefoil, These are low growing but can reach lengths of up to 50cm. They will have 3 small, oval leaves and a tiny yellow flower. They will be seen in the lawn flowering between May and August.

Now is the time to consider lawn renovation, please ask for details.

New Lawn care

Whether you have moved into a new home and you are looking to lay out a new lawn or you have decided to rip up your old lawn and start again then can carry out this work for you from start to finish in a professional manner, advising you on the best course of action.

Laying a new lawn takes careful planning. There are many factors that need to be taken into account when laying out a new Lawn. Laying out a new lawn without taking these actions into consideration will lead to problems down the road and incur unnecessary costs.

What will look for at your site before your new lawn is laid?

Does my Lawn need drainage? will check the land fall and where will water run-off. We will make sure all falls are away from the house. We will advise if the lawn area requires a full drainage system installed. If the site or location is particularly prone to water logging then installing a free draining base layer may be the answer.

Are all soils the same?

If you are using existing soil from the location Lawndoctor .ie will check the type of soil that is on site. We will also carry out a PH test on the soil and advise you on the best course of action. Heavy clay soil will cause compaction, drain poorly and may water log. Clay soils all so dry out very quickly in warm weather.

Where will I find Soil and how much will I need? can take all the hassle out of trying to find top soil. will arrange that the correct quantity of high quality loam Top Soil required is supplied and delivered. Using a minimum of 6” inches of good loam topsoil will give the best results.

How will I level the garden? will carry out all work from start to finish. We will grade the soil, level it to the customers requirements. The soil will then be raked and seeded. We will apply a starter fertilizer to help the seed to germinate and develop a healthy root system.

What seed will I buy?

It goes without saying that you always get what you pay for, and the same goes for grass seed. Unfortunately cheap seed blends are often contaminated with weeds, or contain coarse agricultural perennial ryegrass and turf ryegrass, meaning you'll get a lawn more suitable for grazing sheep. Choosing the correct blend of seed is so important. There are a number of factors that need to be taken into account i.e. Soil type, location, environment and the use of your lawn. will make this important decision with you.

How will I care for my Lawn in years to come?

Once the seed has been sown then it is time to choice the correct starter fertilizer. This is where will provide you with a Taylormade seasonal treatment program to suit your new lawn. You will never have to worry what type of fertilizer to use or what quintiles or what time of year. will do it all for you at an affordable price.